Wednesday, July 27, 2011

River hikes & bikes

Since the last time I posted anything about my actual hometown, I've made two excursions to the newest stretch of the Riverwalk improvements. And I've been dying to tell you about them but had to get through the New England trip posts first.

The day before I left on the New England trip, phase three of the Mission Reach project was officially opened, and Henry and I braved the heat to go check it out. This section is downstream a bit from the section we paddled on Memorial Day, and isn't open for paddling currently. (Some fiddle-faddle about poor water quality is what we've heard...)

But the walkway is pretty sweet, and if the water's unhealthy, it doesn't look that way from the shore. We really enjoyed our ramble along most of phase three.

On the left you can see part of one of the pedestrian bridges that take you from one side of the stream to the other. This particular one is just above the confluence of the river with San Pedro creek. You can see the small dam at the confluence here; the creek is in the background.

In addition to providing variety to the walk by criss-crossing the River, the bridges are great displays of public art. Here's a story in our paper about the bridge by San Pedro Creek, along with some close-ups of the art decorating it.

Which brings me to my second encounter with the bridges and a chance to see some different art.

Just about 10 days ago, after returning from New England, I was graced by a visit from my son and his wife, who tore themselves away from the bright lights of Austin to pay a call on Mom and Pop.

They were up for a bike ride one morning and I was keen to show off the new section of the Riverwalk. We started and ended (with a very welcome cool lunch) at Blue Star Brewery, which is becoming a traditional watering hole for their visits. One of its new perks is a pick-up station for the city's new bike rental program. (On the right you can see the kids deciphering the sign-in screen. I was patiently waiting with my own bike, transported there in the back of our van.)

In spite of the heat (even though we got a pretty early start at 9:30) it was great fun. While the bikes are moving, you're cool enough anyway, and there was a breeze when we stopped. (But the frosty cold ones and iced tea awaiting us at lunch were very welcome.)

We rode all the way down to the end of the improved area. And along the way saw another artistic bridge:

Aren't the colors neat? Our paper had an article about this one, too, along with more photos. What delightful additions these art projects are to otherwise pedestrian (pun intended!) structures.

Below is another example of Riverwalk decoration. There were several of these whimsical stone eddies around the landing near Mission Concepción, and along the street between the River and the Mission. The River used to be a lot closer to it, before being re-routed during the flood control channelization process. But now it's at least symbolically reunited with its historical neighbor.


It's still not far from the River to the Mission, and we rode over to the church, which recently had some refurbishment work done. However, we couldn't go in because a funeral service was in progress. (As you may know, the Missions are unique in the National Park system for being functioning churches. The Park Service runs the grounds, but the churches themselves are governed by the Archdiocese of San Antonio.) But the kids, who'd never been there before, got to walk around the grounds a bit.

At the end of the line, at Mission Road, they have this very nice (and the shade is so welcome) pavilion. In the background you can see work going on for phase 4. I was glad to see some of the workers at the pavilion, so I could tell them in person how impressed we were with what they were doing.

Here's another view, a ways upstream, that I thought showed very well what kind of progress is being made. And how far they still have to go to get the River back the way it was, vegetation-wise, before it was channelized.

The native grasses they've been putting in are growing well, and in spite of the drought can get a least a little water. The pipes you see here are purple, noting their non-potable-ness, taking the water right from the River.

But it's looking good, don't you think?! The view just above is from about midway in our ride and in the distance you can see the Tower of the Americas, next to the Alamo our city's most recognizable landmark.

We think the extension should be good for this part of town, historically an economically depressed area. We saw lots of folks out walking and biking on our own bike excursion, and it was a weekday morning. Hopefully the city's hard work will pay off, but we're pretty excited about it even at this early stage.

And we're not the only ones! We missed the politicos speaking at the formal opening last month, but one of them was the Secretary of the Interior. And he indicated his support for nominating the Missions for World Heritage Site status. Now, we've been to some of these places around the world and aren't too sure our little city can realistically compete for this honor, but it's pretty nice just to be considered!

Here's another article from our paper, if you want to read more about this downstream stretch of Riverwalk improvements.



Blogging hiatus alert! We're headed to Colorado for a couple of weeks of relief from the heat. Internet access is spotty when we're up there, though, so I won't be able to post regularly. But I'll check in when I can.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Little states with lots to see

Seen on a postcard when I was a kid:

"The sun has riz,
The sun has set.
And here we iz,
In Texas yet."

Living in Texas, you get used to the idea that you have to drive most of a day, if not longer, to get to a state boundary.

But things aren't like that in New England, and that's one of the things that makes driving there so exotic and charming. Every hour or so (and sometimes more frequently) you get to see new colors of highway signs and the mile markers start over. Another little joy of traveling!

We spent July 4th making a scenic loop from New Hampshire to Vermont and back, and enjoyed not only crossing the state lines, but also a variety of sights and enjoyments. From history to scenery to some of the best chocolate ice cream this side of Florence's gelato. [At the Mountain Creamery in Woodstock, VT. If you're anywhere in that tiny state, it's not far away!]


Our first stop was a great recommendation from our NH hosts, the kind of out-of-the-way and unexpected jewel that definitely argues in favor of not-too-precise trip planning. The Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site. Never heard of it? Neither had we, but it's a great place to visit.

Especially when you get in free with your brand-spanking-new Senior Parks Pass! (See mine on the left. Just obtained in Acadia. All you youngsters not quite 62 yet can eat your hearts out! )

The site, home of sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens, is off a minor state road (the complexity of the "getting there" directions on the website are a tip-off that it's not going to be overrun with tourists) just on the New Hampshire side of the Connecticut River. [some small-state confusion: this river marks the boundary between VT and NH before finding the sea in CT.]

We didn't know about the site, but we had heard about the sculptor. Although none of us realized just how many famous works he was responsible for. And the site is a beautiful place even without the historical interest.

There's a lovely garden along one side of his major studio that includes the gorgeous hollyhock on the right and well as many other impressive specimens. (See pictures of a few more in this Flickr set.)

But the whole grounds are quite nice and well cared-for (and don't worry, we did leave donations for upkeep to offset our free entrance!). Here's a glimpse of the lawn (perfect size for a soccer field!) with Mt. Ascutney, across the border in Vermont, in the distance:

Of course, though, the sculptures are the big attractions of the site. What's on display at in New Hampshire are various casts and preliminary versions of most of his work, the more famous iterations being on display around the country. (If you're interested in exploring the amazing breadth of his work, from coins to reliefs to massive monuments, this index, provided by the Friends of Saint-Gaudens, has them all.)

Here's a photo of the interior of his main studio, furnished with drawings and portions of larger works:

All in all, a very interesting place. And all the more so for being totally serendipitous! (Many photos of the sculpture on display are themselves on display in my Flickr set.)

Our loop drive next took us into Vermont, another bastion of New England scenery and charm. [And, fortunately, where we weren't liable to run into campaigning Republican Presidential candidates—we barely missed a few in the small NH towns we drove through. What close calls!]

After enjoying the roadside scenery for a while, we wanted to sample Vermont small-town charm close-up. And what better place to do this than Woodstock. On a trip through the region several years ago, Henry and I were somewhat unimpressed with the village, but for the life of me I can't remember why. At any rate, my opinion has turned 180 degrees. What a neat little town! I mean, when this gorgeous building is your public library, how can you go wrong!...

Running through the town is a pleasant little stream with a very long name, the Ottauquechee. We were see more of it, in a more dramatic setting, shortly. But while in Woodstock, it just makes a very picturesque backdrop for flowers and charming buildings...

Not too far east of Woodstock (since you can't go too far east of anywhere in Vermont and still be in the state...ha! ha!) the river makes the incredibly scenic Quechee Gorge. Here's a shot from the bridge that spans it:

Looks like pretty exciting paddling, doesn't it?! Especially to someone from parched south Texas.

The gorge was made when the last ice age retreated, and you can see here that the ancestral Ottauquechee didn't wiggle around but made a clear straight shot when it was digging it. I thought the straightness of the riverbed makes it look almost unnatural, and I'm not sure I've ever seen anything like it.

(I took a lot more pictures here; you can see many of them in the Flickr set.)


Fun as our drive was, there always comes a time when home beckons. In this case, the lovely house of our hosts back in New Hampshire. We were very sad to realize that our New England adventure was almost at an end.

But we were rewarded on our last night in the region with this lovely sunset from their hilltop. Looking west over the rest of tiny New Hampshire and all of Vermont, and on toward our permanent homes, out on the frontier.

New England feels like a different country sometimes, but we were glad to be celebrating the 4th of July in such a wonderful little corner of the land of E Pluribus Unum.



Photos from the whole trip (including many not used in the blog posts) are in this Flickr collection.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

GCI: Island as garden

Our hostess' garden was the floral highlight of our visit to Great Cranberry, and most of the photos in this post were taken around her cottage. But the flowers all over the island were almost as impressive as hers.

The lupines, in particular, are simply amazing, no matter what their color...

...or what other flowers were nearby...

How would you like to have this patch of purple outside your kitchen window?

Purple definitely seems to be the dominant color in the photos I took. Here are some cultivated iris, but there were also wild ones in the woods!


More purples (consulting my flower book, I'm guessing "Venus' Looking Glass"? a bluebell relative)...

But other colors were equally dazzling, from the common, like these roses...

... to this spectacular wigelia, a new shrub to me, perfectly complementing this picturesque gate...

I was very taken with these flowers and couldn't resist some close-up photos, too. Aren't they gorgeous?

Colors aren't even needed to make fabulous flowers, as evidenced by this viburnum...

...another set of blossoms I had to use the macro setting on...

More lovely white flowers help make this funky old well a decorative highlight of the yard...

And here's a better shot of the well...which was a perfect emblem of Great Cranberry for me: lovely, interesting, intriguing, quirky. Just about sums it up!




More flower photos are in this Flickr set. I've grouped the flower pix at the end. And Photos from the whole trip (including many not used in the blog posts) are in this Flickr collection.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

GCI: life is good

...and how could it not be, when you can look about you and see sights like this?

Although we were only able to spend a couple of days on Great Cranberry Isle, I certainly understand why our hostess loves it there. And I sympathize with her when she complains about how hard it is to leave.

Relaxing and visiting took up a lot of our time, in addition to the walks described in my last post.

And also in addition to eating, which we did very well...


our lobster dinner prior to preparation (slightly blurry due to photographer's fear of snapping?)

sacrificed lobster on my plate

The yummy crustaceans were, of course, locally purchased. Although not from the lobsterman whose pots we saw in his yard on our walk to "town." (see right)

He, obviously, hadn't put his pots out yet, but fortunately others have, and our dinner was obtained at the town pier just hours before we consumed it.

Support of local economy by enjoying a delicious and rare delicacy! Can't beat that for a vacation experience!

So you see that some folks on the island actually do work there for a living. But most of its summer visitors (as opposed to the 35 residents who winter over) are either short- or long-term vacationers.

But some folks do other kinds of things that aren't ordinarily associated with vacationing, like serving in the military (see the memorial on the left).

And, even, making it their final resting place...



On our various strolls around the island we saw all kinds of interesting houses of varying degrees of luxuriousness...


attractive GCI vacation house complete with colorful sea-faring decorations

the former Hamor Tea House, now privately owned
but once a no doubt swank watering hole for GCI-ers


But we found our hostess' lovely place to be the most delightful on the island. Here she is with friends and amazingly beautiful landscaping:


If you want to see even more of the fabulous flowers blooming all over the island, stay tuned. My next post will feature GCI flora. And there are more photos of all kinds in my Cranberry Isle Flickr set.

Plus, photos from the whole trip (including many not used in the blog posts) are in this Flickr collection.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

GCI: Sea & Shore

The second phase of our New England adventure took us to the magical land of the Cranberry Isles. (The GCI of my title is Great Cranberry Isle and there is a Little Cranberry as well.)

What a wonderful place to relax, visit with friends, throw sticks for the dog, work puzzles, eat lobster, and generally just really, really enjoy the life we're lucky enough to live.


view across Great Cranberry Isle's Pool
back toward Mount Desert and Cadillac Mountain


Here's what the Isles looked like, cartographically, back in the late 1800's, according to the photo my brother cleverly took in the Great Harbor Museum in Northeast Harbor (where we caught the ferry to GCI)...

Our ferry landed at the top of the island, at the pier in this pleasant little harbor:

The island is served by a people-only ferry, worlds different from the large car ferries that we are used to seeing along the Gulf coast.

There was an interesting discussion going on while we waited to board at Northeast Harbor. Some of the ferrymen seemed to think that the Sea Queen was having some difficulties and that they needed to bring up another boat for us. And after hearing bits of this conversation, we thought that sounded like a good idea.

However, less conservative heads prevailed and we pulled out on the little boat you see on the left here. We made it to the island just fine. However, on our return journey we rode another ferry and heard that the Sea Queen was in for repairs!

Since this is the only way to get from the "mainland" of Mount Desert Island to the Cranberries [relatively] cheaply, all kinds of goods, as well as people, take these little ferries. They just load bulkier items up on top while your suitcases stay with you below. I'm sure after a few weeks this system becomes rather cumbersome, especially since, even in the summer, the ferries run only every 2 hours. But for our brief visit it was only part of the charm and adventure of the Cranberry Isles.

It's not too surprising that some folks use the ferries as sight-seeing vehicles. When you get views like these from aboard:


lovely islands on view during the ferry ride
(we think the larger one is Sutton Island)

looking back toward Mount Desert as we approached GCI's harbor

Even when you're not blessed with the glorious weather we had during most of our visit, the fog makes for great photo opps as well...

As scenic as the journey over to GCI is, the most wonderful sea viewing experiences require the more intimate activity of walking around the island. Here's my sister on a spectacular bit of headland during one of our island walks...

How fabulous to have spaces like this hardly 10 minutes from where you rest your head at night:

Our only regret was that both of our walks happened at low tides. It would be really neat to see these shorelines with more dramatic wave action. But they were gorgeous all the same...

I was particularly taken with the incredibly brightly colored lichen that decorated a lot of these rocks.


It pays to look down and enjoy the micro-views on offer, too, doesn't it, even when the wide-angle shots are so amazing.


colorful pebbles make up GCI's "beaches"
(I limited myself to 3 small souvenirs, but it was hard!)
neat rocks & the sea...an unbeatable scenic combination

We three visitors from very different climes really enjoyed soaking up the strange beauty of the Maine coast:



You won't be surprised to hear that I took well over 100 photos on GCI. You can see more of them in this Flickr set. And my next post will give you a glimpse of what life on magical Great Cranberry is like.

Photos from the whole trip (including many not used in the blog posts) are in this Flickr collection.