Thursday, October 26, 2017

Lago di Como: Villa Carlotta


This is the sight of the Villa Carlotta as our ferry approached its dock. As impressive as this structure is, the Villa is most known for its extensive gardens; most of the pictures I want to show you were taken outside.

We thought the gardens were pretty spectacular, and very much worth seeing, but I couldn't help but wonder how much more amazing they would look in springtime. Of course, during that season, I'm sure the place would be packed with tourists; whereas during our visit, there were no annoying crowds. The garden paths are so long and meandering that we'd walk for long stretches without having to share the trail with anyone.

We did meet a friendly German couple, however, whom I helped by taking a picture of them. They then obliged us with a similar favor:

happy tourists at the garden's panoramic viewpoint
The gardens exhibit a few formal beds...


...but for the most part, the vibe is more natural, if not exactly wild. The eponymous Carlotta's husband, Georg II of Saxen-Meiningen, was a lover of "botanics," and collected trees, shrubs, and flowers from all over the world. (There were even some California redwoods! Oddly, this wasn't the last time we saw some of these trees on our trip, but the second instance came much later.) 

So the "forests" of the gardens look a little fantastical, especially in the conifer department...






this "hoop pine" provides a fantasy frame for a fine lake view
...and there is also an extensive bamboo grove...



But on to the fall flowers! Here's just a sample:

striking blooms along a side path

contrasting white textures, with Lake view

handsome reds at the edge of a meadow

more luxuriant lantana blooms than we usually see at home

Wandering around the extensive path network (that is reasonably well-signed; although you could never really get lost, you can get confused occasionally) was great fun, and good exercise for folks who'd recently spent 14 or so hours in planes and airports. There was even a picturesque and conveniently-placed WC about half-way around...found just in time!


Though Carlotta's gardens are the main draw, there is a Villa, and it was interesting to tour. Although I must admit, a good bit of its attractions involved looking out the windows...

the main gate and the Lake, from a Villa window
The interior is more like a museum than a place where people actually lived, although occasionally there's sort of a domestic touch. This bedroom is generally believed to have been Carlotta's...


The sterility isn't too surprising, though, when you read that Carlotta and Georg rarely visited the place. However, we learned that it was a prime stop on young Europeans' Grand Tour in the nineteenth century.

Sculpture is the main focus of most of the rooms; here's my favorite piece, a melancholy Repentant Magdalene:


Of course, the decor of the rooms is also worth mentioning and snapping. I was particularly impressed with a couple of the ceilings (I was to find out as our trip progressed that I have a latent fascination with ceilings and floors...so there will be more gorgeous ceilings to come  .)

one riotous ceiling...


...and one more classically subdued
We were glad to have taken this trip across the Lake to see Villa Carlotta. As brief as our visit was at Lake Como, we felt we made the most of our time. 

Next up, a road trip across northern Italy, and more mountains, ending up in the South Tyrol.

4 comments:

J Elsner said...

Was the WC free?

Kathy Amen said...

YES! Didn't you think that most WCs in places that you had to pay to get into (museums, etc.) were free?

J Elsner said...

In Prague, the only free WC's were in the hotel.

Kathy Amen said...

Whoa! No wonder it made such an impression on you 8-)