Firenze/Florence: sculpture and more at the Bargello

Behind the handsome walls on all sides of this courtyard (the building was constructed in 1255) is another spot-on Rick Steves recommendation, the Museo Nazionale del Bargello. Some very famous sculptures are its main attractions, and where the crowds are. 

But folks who leave after seeing all the Donatellos are really missing out. I found its assortment of "minor" galleries to be fascinating and well worth the time. But first, a quick look at the main sculpture galleries.

We listened to Rick's [free] audio tour which directed us to the main attractions and provided witty and useful context to many of these pieces. 

Oceanus, by Giambologna (I assume this is Neptune?)

Micelangelo's Bacchus
(Rick says "hope he's not driving")

Donatello's St. George

There were a lot of impressive busts in the ground floor gallery. Not surprisingly, the most engaging was this one, Brutus, by Michelangelo. Doesn't he look like a real guy?

I got kind of a kick out of this one. Not mythological characters battling in some cosmic struggle, but rather mythologized figures representing Florence and Pisa. Guess who comes out on top?

I've always liked DellaRobbia medallions, and the Bargello has several, including this beauty:

Three sculptures of the same subject are the highlights of the first floor's main gallery. Two Davids by Donatello and one by Verocchio, all of which I remember from History of Art class, and all pretty gorgeous.

The early Donatello is probably my least favorite of the three...

...but I call your attention to the fabulous giant's head at David's feet. Isn't it gorgeous?!

Rick says the model for Verrochio's might have been his apprentice, a kid named Leonardo whom you may have heard of...

Donatello's second attempt is the best of the lot, though. Just stunning.

So, the highlights are pretty spectacular, but what about those other galleries that are almost empty of visitors? They shouldn't be! The truly miscellaneous nature of the objects on display, as well as their beauty and historical interest, reminded me strongly of one of my favorite London museums, the Victoria and Albert. 

Here's just a taste of what you can find in this mini-V&A:

exquisite gold...hinges?

gorgeous medieval triptych

backgammon, anyone?

appropriate for the tallest flower stalks

There were a lot of interesting weapons, many of which had been owned by various Medicis, so it's no wonder they were fancy and elaborate...

...but, although I'm not an expert, this multi-pistol array seems a little over the top...

The Bargello is, according to Rick Steves, "underappreciated." But the museum we toured on our last day in Florence is anything but. I'll show you some of the Uffizi treasures next time.