Monday, June 18, 2012

Seize the day

We have to take our paddling chances when and where we can find them!


Mueller Falls on the upper Guadalupe

On Memorial Day we actually had enough water in the upper Guadalupe to make the last stretch before Canyon Lake a fun excursion. This was the section of the river that had dried up completely in some spots last summer. And it may yet again, so we jumped at the chance to see it while we could.

Two fun little falls punctuate this part of the river. The first one you come to is Mueller. Several intrepid paddlers went over the little shelf you can see above not once but twice! I personally preferred the slightly less exciting route around the other side of the island where I was standing to take this picture. (It was still too exciting to allow me to take any pictures, though!) A very lovely setting, as I think you'll agree, looking back upstream here:



The next excitement is Rust Falls, a rather spread-out affair. You can see part of it here, where most of the folks that ran it came over. (I joined some of the other non-adrenaline-junkies and portaged. It was also a nice place to take a swim.)


Here's another section of the falls, where only one of our group attempted (successfully) a descent. That took some real courage, since there was only just barely enough water coming over to float a boat.


The boat tip you see here is my trusty sit-on-top, skillfully maneuvered to the base of the fall. I took some videos there, and when I have some spare time will try to edit them into a little show with my new-found video-editing software.

However, spare time seems hard to come by these days. And I feel quite behind in my blogging. Which is why I'm adding pictures from another trip, one this past Saturday on the San Marcos, to this post.


view from the Westerfield crossing loo on the San Marcos

The paddle does fit in with my "seize the opportunity" theme, though, since we found nearly perfect water conditions on the San Marcos and don't know how long that will last. Being spring-fed, this river is a good bet for passable water during our droughts, but it has been much better than passable the past few weeks, for some reason. Perhaps our winter rains are still percolating through the limestone and keeping the springs going strong? (BTW, Henry got his pictures (many more than mine) from this trip up in record time. You can see them here.)

We knew that the river was running well because the weekend before we'd been up there to watch the first day of the Texas Water Safari. Two of the boats in the field contained friends of ours, but it's really a fun thing to watch even if you don't know anyone. This was my first time to see it and I was quite impressed. (Although I think the crowds probably scared all the turtles away. However, we saw lots of them on our excursion over some of the same ground the next week.)

I plan to blog about the race over on Bridges to London, for what I hope will be understandable reasons. And that should catch me up later this week, before a long weekend trip to Houston will generate more blogging material!

Monday, June 11, 2012

Bonus river

One more post to cover the final day of our central Texas paddling/camping excursion.


Texas is blessed with lots of wonderful rivers and we decided to take advantage of this abundance after finishing up on the Colorado. (If we'd kept going on that river, we'd have hit Lake Buchanan, and none of us wanted to do that!)

We didn't have far to go to reach our "bonus river," the Llano. It got the "bonus" nickname on purpose, since it's often not paddleable. But since there had been some heavy rains in its watershed recently, it presented a rare chance too good to pass up.

First stop, though, after breaking camp at Colorado Bend State Park, was re-fueling at what I believe is the original Cooper's Bar-B-Que in Llano. Oh my, what delicious stuff! On the left is what the "pit" looks like, where you can just point at items and they'll be chopped up and handed to you. The biggest variety of types of smoked meats I think I've ever seen.

Then on to Llano's wonderful Robinson City Park, where you can get a lakeside campground for $1 a person. Yes, that's just one dollar. I'm sure it's a lot busier on holidays and not so easy to find a good site, but we pretty much had the park to ourselves.

After our tents were set up and the decision made to get a short stretch of Llano River action, we headed off upstream. There are several little county roads that make low-water crossings of the river not far from town, and we picked one to start from and one to finish up.

A good bit of the river looks like the picture above, nice and calm, with scenic rocks everywhere. The rocks weren't usually significant obstacles to navigation, but occasionally they were. You can see a couple of the more exciting sections spliced together in this video. Thanks to Mike for being an unwitting movie star for me, and thanks to Hal for telling me about Windows Live Movie Maker, that provided the special effects so effortlessly!


And the rapids were made especially challenging because of the layout of the river. Its bed is so wide, and when it has water there are so many channels, that it's often difficult to decide which one to head into.


which way to go?

But although it was, overall, a tad more exciting a paddle than is my preference, it was fun. And Henry and I were justifiably proud of how we were able to steer our way through without turning over or having any other major mishaps.

And it was beautiful! The late afternoon sun gave me a whole different kind of light to shoot river photos in...


Michael and Marilyn just behind us

It was especially lovely at the low-water crossing where we stopped. The rocks looked amazing in the low-angle light... (you can get a good idea of the width of the riverbed here, too; the photo doesn't even show all of it)


The water was clear as glass. I liked the way it mirrored the photographer's image here, as I looked over the edge of the bridge...


Fun, but tiring! We were glad we had our tents all set up, and in a park with showers! Mike obliged with another fabulous meal, fajitas this time (sorry, it was too dark by the time we ate to take a good picture).



Much as we regretted not getting to float the famous Buffalo River in Arkansas, we can't imagine having a better trip on these less storied rivers...and right in our own back yard!


We couldn't leave charming Llano without a look at their courthouse square, one of our favorite things to do in small-town Texas. But it reminded me of London (!) so I blogged about it in Bridges to London instead of here.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Wildflower bumper crop

The much-needed rains that we enjoyed this winter all-but-guaranteed a top-notch wildflower season, and that's exactly what we've had.


On our recent trip along the Colorado River in central Texas, we were treated to a practically non-stop wildflower extravaganza. 

I wish I'd been able to get a good shot of some of the roadside fields full of, mainly, coreopsis like the beauties above. But since most of the roads we were traveling on were pretty narrow, with infrequent places to stop, I wasn't ever able to get a good shot.

Most of the photos in this post, including the one above, were taken on the island where we camped the first night. Golly! It was just awash in flowers! Mostly the aforementioned coreopsis, but there were all kinds of other lovelies as well. Even some late bluebonnets, as you can see in this closeup of Michael and Marilyn's camp table centerpiece:


You might notice the rather barren-looking soil that was around our campsites in the background here. Apparently, it wasn't too barren! Rather, just right for growing a veritable garden.

more coreopsis by the stream
one of my favorite shots...with a couple of poppies (?) in the crowd
even the guys past their prime lent beauty to the landscape
another perspective...
...and another

We saw more flowers on the rest of the trip, too. Here's some handsome prickly poppy by the roadside in Bend, where we stopped for some ice cream.


I saw more impressive poppies, including this giant, near our campsite in Colorado Bend State Park...


And also near the campsite was one of my favorite Texas flowers, a shy wine cup...



Just to show that I'm not overly prejudiced in favor of flowering plants, I was also quite impressed by this fellow, growing out of a very damp log near our very damp campsite at Barefoot Campground...


I was also pleased with the way my new camera's macro setting handled this closeup. I tried it again a couple of weeks later, on a Guadalupe River excursion, to get this shot. One of my fellow-paddlers pointed the lovely flower out to me, but I can't remember what she said it was called! If you can help identify it, leave a note in the comments...

Which brings me to my last photo, which will serve as something of a teaser for my next post, as well as being a shot I'm quite proud of...


The picture was taken near our campsite at Llano's city park (a great deal and a fine place to camp). The flowers remain mystery blooms, in spite of Marilyn's intensive research with our available flower books. But the mirror-like water in the background is the Llano River, spreading out behind the dam in the middle of town. 

In my next post, I'll have more to say about the Llano, my "bonus river," and will show you what it looks like upstream from the park. Stay tuned!

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Bend in the river

A ways west of Lampasas, upstream from Lake Buchanan, the first of its many reservoirs, the Colorado River (in Texas) makes a sweeping "S." On the west side (which is river right as you're making your way downstream) is the relatively young Colorado Bend State Park (opened in 1987).


As you might remember, we camped at the park for the third night of our recent Colorado River excursion.

It's a very interesting place. The car-campsites are located in a small section at the bottom of the "S," but they are really gorgeous and have basic amenities. (There are also a couple of back-packing sites.) 

Most of the roadways in the park are not paved (which, when traveled while damp, causes your car and trailer to be coated with a fine caliche mud—a cheap paint job if you were looking to lighten up the hue!) but are well-maintained. And the small area of the park is chock full of trails, as you can see from this detailed map.

We didn't take advantage of the trails, although a slight echo of our navigational challenges from the day before made us think we were. Before we actually crossed the park boundary (they don't have signs on the river like they do on the highway!) we followed a little creek upstream. 


It was quite scenic, but we decided after hiking around it a bit that it was on private property. Sorry! At least, we left no trace and don't think we scared any wildlife.

Back in the boats for a little more paddling, we shortly knew we were in the park when we came to Gorman Falls. How lucky we were to be seeing it just after some substantial rains!

This is how it looks from the river. No, that little fall in the foreground of the picture isn't the attraction. Look back a bit, through the screen of the trees...


Apparently in some moisture conditions, it's not much more than a trickle. But as you can see in this short video, that was not the case for our visit:



Wow! What an amazing place! Not surprisingly, I took a lot of photos there. Here are a few more:




After the falls, we still had a couple of miles to go to the campsites. An interesting aspect of Colorado Bend is that it just occupies one side of the river. On the other side are vacation homes! Some of these were pretty nice, others rather humdrum...an interesting mix of housing values. So there's swanky civilization on your left, and primitive "wilderness," at least apparent wilderness, on your right. Kind of strange.

Fortunately for the camping experience, when you get down to the campsites there's only some nice bluffs across the river from you. And as I showed you in my previous post, the campsites are quite lovely. Here's the view looking up into those fabulous trees where we had our Jambalaya...


I'm glad we discovered Colorado Bend State Park! 

Next up, a banner Texas wildflower season.

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Finished project

I've been working on this for several months and finally (hopefully*) it's ready for prime time:


It's a collection of photos and reminiscences from our family trip to Germany, Austria, and Italy (with a quick layover in Paris).

Hope you enjoy it! I had a lot of fun putting it together.

*I have proofread the text, but let me know if you see any typos. Also, if any of the pictures don't display or look goofy, let me know. I've only minimally tested it on browsers other than Chrome.

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Colorado (River) camping and cuisine

Camping in Texas is only possible at certain times of the year. Trying to sleep in a tent when the overnight low temperature doesn't dip below 80 is NOT a desirable experience.

Fortunately our mild spring hung on a bit longer than usual and our paddling/camping excursion of a few weeks ago was blessed with perfect weather (except for some rain, which actually worked to our advantage, as I'll tell you later when I talk about our "bonus river").

For three nights of not-exactly-roughing-it on the river, you need a lot of gear. Here's a shot of our canoe at the put-in. That's my seat up at the front, complete with a fabulous backrest made by rolling up my fabulous sleeping pad. Behind it is our new ice chest, bought specifically to fit in this canoe, surrounded and covered by bags of food and clothes, and campsite essentials like our chairs. You can't even see Henry's seat in the rear of the boat for all the stuff.



Our first campsite was on a large island a few miles downstream from our put-in at the highway 190 bridge.


That's Henry working on unloading gear from the boat. Who wouldn't be "all set" for a pleasant evening in such surroundings? You can see some of the beautiful flowers that were all over the island in this picture. The flowers were so wonderful on the whole trip that I plan to devote an entire future post to pictures of them.

Michael and Marilyn were even able to decorate their camp table with a floral centerpiece (in a bottle also found on the island)...That's their super-cool tent behind it.


And flowers weren't the only natural lovelies on the scene. There were lots of shells, and parts of shells, from freshwater clams, that were just gorgeous. And huge! Here are two I brought home for souvenirs, with a coin in the frame for scale. Hard to imagine the size of the critters that made these! But what beautiful workmanship!


Of course, we ate well on the island. Dinner was steaks and salad that we brought, plus potatoes and some of Mike's famous cobbler, cooked to perfection in the Dutch oven over the fire. What an artiste!



After a scrumptious breakfast of bacon and eggs, we started off on what we knew was going to be a long day of paddling. Our goal was Barefoot Campground, estimated to be about 15 miles downriver. We'd left a car there and reserved a campsite with a sheltered table (which, it turned out, we really needed).

Some navigational issues made us think, however, that we had much farther to go than we actually did. Fortunately, the error was made in overestimating, not underestimating, the distance before us.

Which made our surprise arrival at the little town of Bend, Texas, all the sweeter. We had thought it was several hours ahead! We celebrated our good fortune at Bad Bob's in Bend—just a short, steep climb up the bank—with ice cream treats from Bob's freezer. While also admiring the establishment's rustic humor and decor. (click on the photo at the left to see a larger image and be able to read the jokes)

Three miles down the river from Bend was Barefoot, and our ice cream break meant we made it just in time...no sooner had we beached the canoes and ferried our gear up to the shelter, when the heavens opened up! Quite a downpour. It made gathering good wood for our fire a challenge but Marilyn was up to it. While the guys went back to the put-in to pick up the other cars, she was able to construct a very nice campfire, structured perfectly to dry out the subsequent damp stuff needed to keep it going.




 As it turned out, we weren't able to use it for cooking since the rain wasn't finished with us. (On the right is a shot up at the top of our tent from the inside, the next morning. It must have rained almost all night!)

I don't have a photo of the wonderful chili we had for dinner that night, but we cooked it on our Coleman stove (a wedding present still going strong!) under the shelter. Which arrangement we also used for the next morning's breakfast of egg casserole. Here's Michael demonstrating the proper technique for keeping eggs from sticking to the Dutch oven. The wall behind is that of the very welcome shelter. Note the phone number! If you need a great place to camp on the Colorado, you can't do better than Barefoot. Even the showers were first-rate!


We had to wait quite a while after breakfast before we could take off on the last leg of our Colorado excursion. It rained, pretty hard off and on, for a couple of hours that morning while we enjoyed our egg casserole. But it eventually cleared. All that remained then was for us to break camp, and load the boats. 

After emptying all that rainwater! (red line points to the outflow)


A small price to pay for a great campsite. With amenities and scenery that are all top-notch. (Thanks to Michael for taking this picture of me at sunset the next day, when we went back to Barefoot to get his car.)




The last day on the Colorado involved a lot of paddling, too, but we were somewhat more aware of where we were and how much further we had to go. Our campsite goal was Colorado Bend State Park, another 10+ miles downstream.

But it was worth it! Just look at this absolutely gorgeous campsite! That's our tent on the left. I don't think I've ever camped under a more fabulous set of trees.


And, of course, the cuisine matched the surroundings. Mike treated us to a pot of the most delicious Jambalaya I've ever had...


(If just looking at this makes the Hank Williams song start up in your head, here's a short audio sample from the always useful Wikipedia.)

I'll have more to show and tell you about this lightly developed jewel of a park in my next post. But here's just a sample of the scenery from the campsite area, with morning mist still on the hills:


Still to come in the series: more about Colorado Bend and its amazing Gorman Falls, examples of our great wildflower season, and, of course, the bonus river.