Norwich: general tourism

 Welcome back, Bridges to London readers! Time to rejoin the carriageway, as it were. We leave the big city behind today and embark upon the last half of our British vacation. Various wonders await!

First stop—after retrieving our 9-passenger carriage and winding our way out of London (not a simple affair)—is Norwich, in East Anglia. Here's our chauffeur-extraordinaire Hal, who masterfully handled motorways, narrow one-laners, and excessively congested parking lots. It was so nice to just sit in the back and leave the driving to him! (and navigating to Henry)

Norwich has a charming old core that has some special significance for our family, but more about that aspect of it next time. It's also got plenty of regular old English tourist attractions, too, in particular, its impressive cathedral:

Because of the convenient location of our very nice Airbnb, we had plenty of time to walk to the church and see more of the old town before dinner. And the church rather invites visitors to spend a good bit of time there—there's lots to see.

Lovely stained glass, for instance:

run-of-the-mill [!] stained glass

Erpingham Window, with some medieval glass,
to commemorate Sir Thomas Erpingham, who was at Agincourt!

an all-too-familiar WWI memorial window

There's more to see in the main part of the cathedral, like this very handsome organ:

And some interesting tombs, like this one with the thoughtful inscription to go with its creepy appearance:

In case you can't read it in the picture, it says:

All you that do this place pass bye

Remember death for you must dye.

As you are now even so was I

And as I am you shall be.

There are also lovely cloisters outside:

But of course it's not the only impressive church in town. Any English town that's been around as long as Norwich is bound to be overflowing with them. For example, St. Michael-at-Plea:

You can see another nice one in the background here—St. Peter Mancroft. Although the main attraction for me was the beautiful knapped flint dressing on the wall in the foreground.

I fell in love with this decorative idea when I was in England in 2008. And fortunately you see it everywhere. Here's a particularly interesting spin on the technique. I wish I'd made a good mental note of which church sported this unusual arrangement:

This building (which I thought was a church but after much internet digging, I think is just part of the Guildhall, whose taller tower you can see behind it) goes crazy with the stuff:

The area around the cathedral has some nice grassy areas, perfect for kiddos to stretch their legs on, with statuary that some folks might think they identify with...

the bronze gentleman is Wellington

And bordering the old city is this handsome arch; unfortunately I neglected to note its age, but it looks like it's been there a while:

One of the coolest parts of the old town is this street, which a helpful sign notes is "probably one of the best [old streets] in the country." I think we agree!

Elm Hill

This charming byway provides a nice segue for my next post, which is about family history—a lot of which is on display on this very street!

Wordless Wednesday: best pub name ever?

 

Photo IDs

 Here are the locations of the photos I posted last time. (As far as the overall answer to the "quiz," it is of course the Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. Although we didn't cross the Irish Sea on this trip, we did see it!)

1. Beans advert: on the side of a building between the walls around the old city of York and our fabulous Airbnb in that city.

2. Bird protection caution: in a church in Norfolk where some of Henry's relatives are buried, found after an exhaustive search of the area.

3. Toilet humor: probably at the Vineyard Cafe in the Helmsley Walled Garden in Yorkshire, an AI-suggested stop on our tour of the moors.

4. Poppy manufacture: taken out of the bus window somewhere on our trip to or from Hampton Court Palace; the poppies referred to are those you see everywhere in the UK in the fall, as Remembrance Day approaches...this is where they make them!

5. Watch your step and your head: probably Conwy Castle, in North Wales. (We visited two castles that day, so it could be Beaumaris Castle; it had similar signs.)

6. Cheeky, and somewhat threatening, caution about alcohol purchase: in the cafe at Fulham Palace, near our main London Airbnb.

7. "Smart" paint sign: somewhere in London, taken out of a bus window as we made several journeys the day it was taken.

You can read more about all of these locations! Head to my Bridges to London blog to get a blow-by-blow of our 10 days in London. Then I'll post back here for the rest of our trip.

Super-trip 2025

I've got a wonderful trip to tell you about, chock full of great adventures and, I hope, fabulous pictures to illustrate them. But I thought I'd start you off with a [not very difficult] little quiz: we were traveling in a country that is so polite, and so witty, that even their advertising and cautionary signs are worth photographing. As you might remember from a previous visit of mine (spoiler alert: following this link will tell you where we were!).

I'll tell you where each of the following pix was taken in my next post here, but to read about the first part of our adventures, I need to spoil you again by referring you to another blog, one which hasn't seen a new post from me in ages. Curious? follow the link, after you enjoy these great, and sometimes mysterious, signs:

Wordless Wednesday: thanks for visiting!

 

Memory Lane has changed

I know it's been a while since my last post, but I think I'm finally getting through some obligations to non-blog-worthy work, and hope to be a little better about this in the rest of 2025.

Like last week, when I spent a delightful few days with some old and new friends from college. This group of women get together every year and I've joined them a few times (once we visited a cave!). This year's outing, back on our old stomping grounds, wasn't one to pass up.

One of the things I was most interested in seeing was the newly designed academic quadrangle. That's a picture of it above. The landscaping is still in the beginning stages, but eventually there will actually be shade there—imagine, wanting shade in Houston! Yes, the iconic hedges of my youth are gone, but the overall design is more flowing and natural-looking, so the hedges' strict perpendicularity would have been out of place.

Here's a shot of one section of the quad where the plantings are really taking off, and you can see the curvature of the path:

The buildings in the background have been changed substantially, too: Anderson Hall on the right, where I had a lot of English classes, is now strictly the Archies' (that's Ar-Kees, or architecture students)

domain; and Fondren Library on the left, where I worked during and after graduation, now has a nice covered area with benches all along its front.

What inspired this transformation of the quad was the question of what to do with the statue of the University's founder, which sat right in the middle of it, in somewhat hagiographic splendor. (Although, some prankster engineering students in the 1980's treated it rather disrespectfully, actually lifting the entire statue around so that it faced the library instead of the administration building. You can see a picture of it flipped here, a shot which incidentally shows you a bit of how the quad looked before the re-design.)

The problem with according William Marsh Rice such elevated status is that he was an enslaver, and therefore some of the wealth used to endow the school—which was originally set up as an institute for whites only—was the result of enslaved people's labor. The University wanted to acknowledge this troublesome past, while at the same time being grateful for the man's vision, which has resulted in this first-class institution.

Not wanting to just jump in and take the statue away somewhere, after much careful thought they came up with the re-design of the quad and a new home for "Willy," as the statue has always been called by students. Here he is in his new digs, and down at eye level, as a human being, not held up as some sort of paragon:

He's still in the quad, just off in this attractive corner between the administration building and Sewell Hall. I feel like my alma mater handled this difficult history about as well as it could be handled. They even researched and published a lengthy report on the institution's history with segregation and injustice. I read the whole thing and it's a fascinating, thoughtful analysis of these issues; you can see it here.

Willy's plinth, or at least the base of it, is still in the center of the quad, just not perpendicular to the buildings any more, but at an angle, befitting the new design aesthetic:

I've read that the designers intend for it to be able to be used as a small performance space...maybe when some of those shade trees have grown a bit. I really like the quotation attached to it. Everyone's heard of Kennedy's speech at Rice Stadium, where he talks about going to the moon, but I've never heard this part of the speech before. The guy (or someone who worked for him) really knew how to write speeches, eh?

After a couple of days of contributing a ton of oral history for the University Historian (which brought back so many memories!) we took a tour of another building that wasn't around when we went to school. Just as I was leaving, the Shepherd School of Music was being born, and their enormous, but lovely, building now takes up part of what used to be the stadium parking lot. (It was opened in 1975.) A bit more of that lot was taken to build the new opera house, which was just dedicated in 2022. The Shepherd School is on the right here, and the Brockman Music and Performing Arts Center (the opera house) is on the left. I made sure some of my friends were in the frame so you could see the scale of these behemoths!

We had an informative talk by the Brockman's director, and then got to sit in on a rehearsal, which was super cool...

the hall's impressive ceiling,
with a bit of some of the seating levels

...and what was even more amazing, was a look backstage, and a talk by the guy who almost single-handedly makes all the sets. Here's a piece left over from a previous show, that will probably get used again:

you can almost smell the fresh-cut wood, can't you?

All this grandeur tends to color my memories of the campus now, although whenever I have one of those "there's an exam and I forgot to study!" nightmares, I'm usually on the "ghost campus" as it  was in 1967-71. So walking around is both familiar and strange...a little unsettling, but still worthwhile. (You can read of previous trips to campus, and see other changes and artistic touches, by following the Rice University label on the right.)

I'll close with a shot of the fabulous opera house, looking worthy of being in London or Milan, don't you think?

Gorgeous Gulf

I just realized the other day that I promised a blog post of natural wonders from my trip to Houston last month! I am a bad blogger, but better late than never, I hope.

Galveston, the Gulf and the Bay, were the beaches we visited. Above is the Gulf, on a day windy enough that a dangerous surf warning was up. Here's a look down to the other end of the island:

The windy conditions made the heat and humidity (in November!) easier to take. And it apparently was perfect for the fellows we saw wind-surfing on the Bay side of the island:

looks like fun? maybe?

In addition to nature in the raw, we took in a rather spectacular example of curated nature at the Moody Gardens in Galveston. Wow! What a great zoo/aquarium/botanical garden!

The aquarium section was my favorite. I was pleased to see this nice exhibit of African cichlids, fish that we—in our more energetic younger days—actually kept in a large-ish aquarium. They're really fun fish to watch, as besides being beautiful, they're quite territorial. And the moms incubate the eggs, and even protect the newborn fry, in their mouths! We were so excited the first time we saw little baby cichlids bursting out of a parent's mouth.

the Great Lakes here are African rift lakes, not the US variety

There were all kinds of other great fish displays, including this large cylindrical tank, with nephew and lovely great-niece's curly locks for scale:

One of my favorite class of critters in an aquarium is always the jellyfish, and they had a whole room of them! This was the most striking of the jellyfish tanks:

Our last evening on the coast was when we saw the wind-surfer on the Bay, and were also treated to this lovely sunset. A fitting closure to our brief visit to this very interesting part of our state.